Health for life

Ahhh it was a good day today when I read this article... "Study raises questions about dietary fats and heart disease guidance".  Heres the scoop... researchers from the United States and Australia have recovered missing data from an old study from the 1970s.  The study, known as the Sydney Diet Heart Study, was a randomized controlled trial in which the participants were told to replace the saturated fats in their diets with polyunsaturated fats from vegetable oil.  The 458 subjects were all men between ages 30-59 who had recently had a coronary event, defined as either a heart attack or angina (1). 

Why was this data missing?  Who knows.  I cant find a good answer.  But had these results been available in the mid 1970s as they should have been, it may have changed the course of the dietary guidelines on fat intake.

Okay so we had two groups, both groups are coming off of either a heart attack or angina.  Let me break it down right quick...

Group 1:  Control group

• Given no dietary advice at all

Group 2:  Intervention group, given the following instructions...

• Reduce dietary saturated fat (animal fats) to under 10% of calories
• Reduce dietary cholesterol to less than 300 mg/day
• Increase polyunsaturated fats (from safflower oil) to 15% of calories

The participants diets were reported through a daily food diary, and they reported to the lab for testing 2-3x per year for several years.  Here are the results for all-cause death, cardiovascular disease, and coronary heart disease...


Here you can see the cumulative death rate over the course of 5 years of follow-up.  The data is essentially the same for all-cause, cardiovascular, and heart disease deaths.  Its also statistically significant and very, very clear.  Those in the intervention group, who reduced their saturated fat and cholesterol intake while increasing their polyunsaturated fat intake, fared worse.  In other words, the people eating more saturated fat and cholesterol lived longer, and they had a lower rate of heart disease.

This shouldnt come as a huge surprise if youre a reader of this here blog.  You know saturated fat is wrongly accused... and that vegetable oils are the devil.  Just further evidence here.  But theres something else thats interesting about this study:  the cholesterol levels.  The data is only available for 1 year of follow up, and I had to make this graph myself for your viewing pleasure.  Check it out...


Sorry about the colors... theyre actually the opposite of the graphs above and I hadnt realized it til now!  But the point is that the intervention group in red, the group eating more vegetable oils, lowered their total cholesterol nearly 40 points!!  They ended up at 243.9 mg/dl by the end of the first year.  The control group?  Well they lowered theirs a measly 15 points to 266.5 mg/dl.  Both began at the same level.  (There were no significant differences between groups in triglycerides, body mass index, or systolic or diastolic blood pressure at baseline or during follow-up.)

So based on this, you would assume that the intervention group would be better off, right?  But they werent.  They died far more often of heart disease than the control group did, and with lower cholesterol!  Lesson #1:  Arbitrarily lowering your cholesterol by any means necessary does not and will not lower your risk of heart disease!!!  Cholesterol is just a semi-accurate risk factor...  it is not the cause.  Theore I dont necessarily give two shits if your diet lowers your total cholesterol. 

But the worst part of all this?  Replacing saturated animal fats with unsaturated vegetable fats has been a cornerstone of mainstream dietary advice for the past 40 years.  I could cite any number of different sources here, like...

• The 2010 Dietary Guidelines:  "Americans should replace solid fats with oils." pg. 40 (2)
• The American Heart Association:  "Replacement of saturated fat and trans fat with monounsaturated fat and polyunsaturated fat might even help lower LDL cholesterol when eaten as part of a healthy diet." (3)
• The My Plate fats and oils info sheet I was forced to teach to teenagers last semester in my community rotation:  "Replacing saturated fats with unsaturated fats lowers your cholesterol and reduces your risk for heart disease."

I, for one, have had enough of this shit.  Its time this changes, and maybe this is the study to put it over the edge.  Saturated fat isnt killing us.  Vegetable oil is.  Eat real food.  Peace Im out.

When I was a teenager, I daydreamed of the bohemian artists life I would lead some day. I pictured my lover and I dining and drinking with friends in a Greenwich Village flat, speaking passionately of film and music and politics and theater and Art with a capital A. Smoke from our clove cigarettes swirled up to the sky light; sounds of laughter and genius tumbled out onto the sparkling city street.

My grown-up life is not quite the beatnik fantasy Id imagined, but its not as far off as I realized. Last week, CB and I shared a delicious meal with our friends M and R and their friends J and G. We spoke passionately of zombie movies and intellectual property law and world travel and SpiderMan: Turn Off the Dark. Beer swirled in glasses; the food was as brilliant as the company.

Our party was evenly split down food lines: three omnivores and three vegetarians. M prepared a meatstravaganza for the omnivores - Mario Batalis proscuitto-wrapped skirt steak flanked by pancetta. She also set out a delicious array of salads and vegetarian side dishes that could have fed twice as many.

I was tasked with the vegetarian entree, but something about my assignment made me nervous. Its rare that I cook for strangers, or that I make an "entree." Im more of a grain/bean/green vegetarian: one pot, three ingredients, one full belly. I wanted my dish to be special, so I knew I should make something Id made before.

I turned to Mark Bittmans Parsnip and Wheatberry Pie with Phyllo Crust, a variation of which Id vowed to never make again. Phyllo and I didnt get along very well that one time, but oh, its tasty and damn impressive. I would give it another go.

Against my better judgment, I stopped at the grocery on my way to Ms for ingredients: frozen phyllo dough, wheatberries, etc. Planning ahead is not my strong suit. Turns out wheatberries need an overnight soak and three hours to cook before edibility, so I made a last-minute adjustment: kasha.

In the vegetable aisle, I was seduced by the sweet potatoes and right to believe they would add a delightful sweetness to the nutty kasha and peppery parsnips.

Phyllo dough is labor intensive and decadent, by virtue of just how much butter (or oil) it takes to make it work. But oh Man Ray, its certainly worth the splurge on occasion. Frozen phyllo dough needs to be defrosted overnight in the rigerator (trust me). Those thin sheets of dough will tear if not fully thawed before handling.

And Mark Bittmans not kidding when he tells you youll need 1/2 cup of melted butter to lubricate 8 to 12 layers of pastry. I thought I could cut back on the fat, but my frugality just kept me running back and forth to the microwave.

But oh, those two hours of preparation and sweating over paper-thin sheets of dough were worth it. The pie was a smashing success. J and G were thrilled with our extravagant entree, and the omnis were just as impressed. M shared that she and R savored the lonely leftover slice the next day.

Light, buttery, and flaky, the delicate crust highlighted the earthy flavors of the filling, and the provolone cheese gave a pungent kick. Just a hint of thyme balanced the scales.

The filling was so delicious, I wanted to make the pie again immediately; but phyllo pie seems a bit out of reach for a Monday night supper. A couple of frozen whole wheat pie crusts saved the day, cutting prep time nearly in half. What took me two hours to prepare in phyllo took less than one episode of RuPauls Drag Race (45 minutes) with frozen pie crust from the market (or homemade, if youve got the energy or extra few minutes). I still had to defrost the suckers, but only enough to make a top crust out of a bottom, and that can be done while the rest of the prep is happening.

The work-a-day version came out looking a little more like a succubus than its light and flaky phyllo counterpart, but it tasted just as delicious, even sans butter and cheese. There was no savings in the calorie or fat departments, but this savory pie makes for a delicious departure from the quotidian. The sweet and nutty filling pairs beautifully with a hearty whole wheat crust and makes a terrific pot pie alternative.

Whether you wax philosophic with friends over layers of phyllo or catch up on your reality TV with pie dough, Sweet Potato, Parsnip and Kasha Pie will make you grateful for the dream youre living.

~~~~

If this recipe tips your canoe, swim on over to:

• Savory Squash Pie
• Kasha with Root Veg and Dill
• Vegetarian Shepherds Pie

~~~

Sweet Potato, Parsnip and Kasha Pie
adapted from How to Cook Everything Vegetarian by Mark Bittman
Serves 6


Filling:
1/2 cup kasha
1 1/2 cups vegetable stock
1/2 tablespoon butter or extra virgin olive oil
2 cups grated parsnips (about 8 ounces)
2 cups grated sweet potatoes (about 8 ounces)
1 shallot, coarsely chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped or 2 teaspoons dried thyme
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup provolone, grated (optional)

Phyllo Crust:
8 to 12 sheets phyllo dough, thawed overnight
7 tablespoons butter, melted or 1/2 cup (less 1 tablespoon) extra virgin olive oil

OR
Traditional Pie Crust:
2 whole wheat pie crusts, thawed

Instructions
Preparation:
Wash, peel, and grate sweet potatoes and parsnips. Chop garlic, shallot, and fresh thyme. For phyllo variation, lightly coat pie pan with oil, butter, or cooking spray.

1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2) In a medium saucepan, bring vegetable stock to a boil. Stir in kasha, reduce heat, and simmer for about 20 minutes, until water is absorbed and grains are fluffy. Set aside.

3) Heat oil or butter in a large heavy-bottomed skillet. Add grated vegetables, shallot, garlic, salt, and pepper and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring often. Add a few splashes of water if mixture sticks to bottom of pan.

4) Combine kasha, cooked vegetables, thyme, and optional cheese.

Eleganza Phyllo Dough Variation
5) Dampen clean tea towels or paper towels, enough to cover unrolled phyllo dough. Ring out so that they are just damp, not dripping wet. Unroll phyllo dough.

6) Peel up one sheet and place in greased pie plate. Cover unrolled sheets with damp toweling to keep from drying out. Baste phyllo pastry youve placed in pie plate with melted butter using a soft-bristled brush. Repeat four to five times, basting each layer and turning the sheets slightly as you go around.

7) Add filling to phyllo crust. Repeat step six with four to six sheets of phyllo dough to form the top crust. Fold up the edges and basted to seal.

8) Score top and bake for 30 to 40 minutes. Allow to cool before cutting. Serve with a green salad or sauteed greens and sparkling conversation.

Everyday Whole Wheat Crust Variation
5. Add filling to defrosted pie crust. Place second crust on top of filling, trim away excess, pinch edges together, and score top.

6. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes. Allow to cool before cutting. Serve with a green salad or sauteed greens and biting political discourse.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price per Serving
Phyllo/Dairy Variation: 418 calories, 25g fat, 4.6g fiber, 11g protein, $.97
Whole Wheat Crust/Dairy-free Variation: 418 calories, 23g fat, 9.6g fiber, 8.5g protein, $.97

Calculations
1/2 cup kasha: 283.5 calories, 2g fat, 8.5g fiber, 9.5g protein, $0.46
1 1/2 cups vegetable stock: 15 calories, 1.5g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.16
1/2 tablespoon butter: 70 calories, 7.5g fat, 0g fiber, 0.5g protein, $0.08
2 cups grated parsnips: 100 calories, 0g fat, 6g fiber, 3g protein, $0.36
2 cups grated sweet potatoes: 224 calories, 0g fat, 8g fiber, 4g protein, $0.68
1 shallot: 30 calories, 0g fat, 3g fiber, 2g protein, $0.20
6 cloves garlic: 24 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.07
1 tablespoon fresh thyme: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
pepper: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1/2 cup provolone: 392 calories, 28g fat, 0g fiber, 28g protein, $1.48
8 sheets phyllo dough: 392 calories, 4g fat, 2g fiber, 12g protein, $1.84
7 tablespoons butter: 980 calories, 105g fat, 0g fiber, 7g protein, $1.05
OR
2 whole wheat pie crusts: 1760 calories, 128g fat, 32g fiber, 32g protein, $4.39
TOTALS (Phyllo/Cheese Variation): 2510.5 calories, 148g fat, 27.5g fiber, 66g protein, $5.82
TOTALS (Whole Wheat Crust/Dairy-free Variation): 2506.5 calories, 139g fat, 57.5g fiber, 51g protein, $5.84
PER SERVING (TOTALS/6): 418 calories, 25g fat, 4.6g fiber, 11g protein, $.97
PER SERVING (TOTALS/6): 418 calories, 23g fat, 9.6g fiber, 8.5g protein, $.97

Research details published in the Molecular Nutrition and Food Research journal explains the potent mechanism exhibited by cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli and cauliflower to ameliorate developing cancer cells. The active photochemical known as sulforaphane targets prostate and other hormone dependent cancer lines and leaves normal healthy cells unaffected.